Clad in natural, heat-blued titanium, De Bethune’s DB 28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon encapsulates nearly every quality to which the brand aspires. It is the first watch to extend the titanium heat-bluing process—originally perfected by De Bethune—to the entire case, lugs and upper movement surfaces. The hue enhances the futurist aesthetic the brand has embraced with its choice of dramatic curves and clean surfaces. Also showcased are the company’s exacting standards of quality. The exposed movement plates feature specular “black” polishing that instantly reveals the most minor imperfections. The same attention to quality is given to chronometric functions. De Bethune’s tourbillon carriage is one of the very few that beats at 5 hz. As it is almost completely fabricated in silicium, it is also one of the lightest, and its performance has been validated as one of the most accurate in the watch industry.

DB 28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon

The deep, lustrous color of heat-blued titanium has presented De Bethune with a number of compelling aesthetic options, one of which is creating a facsimile of a starry sky by fusing tiny gold spheres to the titanium surface. While this technique has been used in a number of the brand’s avant garde models, it is seen to best effect in the new, relatively classic DB 25 Starry Varius. The watch surrounds the star field with historic touches, including Roman numerals, rose gold indices and “pomme” hands. The futurist lines of De Bethune’s hand-wound caliber provide a harmonious counterpoint to this classicism while assuring its smooth, reliable function.

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